Tribute to the Doors

The death of Ray Manzarek, keyboard player of the legendary band The Doors, is really sad. As a teenager, I was fascinated by their transcendental lyrics and songs, listening to them again and again and reading all the books mentioned on Jim Morrison's biography. I was seduced by his mind and inspired by their brilliant music, as many continue to be today.

Robby Krieger, Ray Manzarek, John Densmore and Jim Morrison

A documentary about The Doors was shown at the British Film Festival in 2010 and much has been written in order to lift the veil of mystery surrounding them, but it's impossible to conceptualise what their music communicates. We can focus on one instrument or just the words but it's the fusion of the four elements that creates magic.

On this video, Ray Manzarek speaks about how Riders on the Storm came up, an excerpt from the documentary "Mr. Mojo Risin - The Story Of L.A. Woman". For further insights about him and The Doors it's worth reading his memoir. There was always this subversive quality about their music, challenging perceptions and fixed behaviours. Somehow it feels like a wake-up call.

Now there's so much noise around that we almost forget how music can uplift the mind, particularly when combined with poetry. The Doors are unique and Ray Manzarek's jazzy narratives are timeless. Their legacy lives on.   

"If the doors of perception were cleansed everything would appear to man as it is, infinite." William Blake

The Doors

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Cannes Festival Style 2013

Spring couldn't be any brighter in Cannes with all the stars posing away on the red carpet. Ironically, the film festival suffers $1m jewellery theft on the day of the premiere of The Bling Ring, a new film directed by Sofia Coppola about teenagers stealing designer clothes, bags and shoes from celebrities (based on true events). 

Carey Mulligan in Christian Dior Couture and Zhang Yuqi in Ulyana Sergeenko

Film, media and fashion work closely together to promote one another, we love to see our favourite actresses all dressed up, looking super glamorous. It's like reading the Cinderella story, the transformation is exciting but it's important to understand how everything works without getting caught up by the flash bulbs.

Freida Pinto in Sanchita and Emma Watson in Chanel

The red carpet is a powerful advertising medium reaching millions of people through television, magazines, blogs, videos... Stars are promoting themselves, their films and the brands they wear. Fashion plays a key role to portrait the perfect image but that's what it is, a constructed illusion just like the Cinderella story itself.

Julianne Moore in Christian Dior and Sonam Kapoor in Dolce & Gabbana

This fantasy moment is beautiful to watch but we should be happy to continue playing the lead role in our own life. The most rewarding transformation of all comes from within, inspiring women who have a good heart reveal their kindness in whatever circumstances they find themselves in. 

"Luxury is artificial poverty." Socrates   

Fan Bingbing in Elie Saab and Zang Ziyi in Carolina Herrera

If we think of celebrities, Angelina Jolie has certainly influenced positively other women when she wrote about removing her breasts due to health concerns. Fashion is definitely not about inner beauty but it has become so obsessed with illusory iconic symbolism that it seems to have lost the fundamental connection with who we are.  

Isla Fisher in Oscar de la Renta and Liya Kebede in Alberta Ferretti

As Beyonce said on her documentary Life is But a dream, stars are judged for what they wear instead of their talent. So when we see this parade of beautiful women wearing the most amazing gowns on the red carpet, it's important to focus above all on how they are on screen. That's where they really shine! 

Elizabeth Debicki in Alex Perry and Lane Del Rey in Lena Hoschek

Having said this, it's always interesting to see what celebrities decide to wear when the lights go up. The Princess dress continues to be a favourite look on the red carpet as stated on my blog post Couture Fit for Stars, featuring Zhang Yuqi's green dress by Ulyana Sergeenko. Shimmering fabrics and lace are also strong, particularly in figure hugging gowns.

Georgia May Jagger in Roberto Cavalli and Cara Delevingne in Burberry 

Curiously enough, some celebrities have decided to wear not so well known designers such as the Indian Sanchita, the Australian Alex Perry and the Austrian Lena Hoschek. It's refreshing to see new names emerging on such a global scale event. I also have to post images of these two British models of the moment as they both look stunning! What's your favourite dress?



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Top Films in Fashion

Social media is gaining more and more prominence in people's lives, we love to share with others whatever we find interesting via our hi-tech gadgets. Fashion, which is always a reflection of what's going on in the world, has taken this into a whole new level producing short films to communicate brands' ethos. 

(photo: socialmediacouncil.eu)

Fashion doesn't account for an exclusive category on YouTube but the most renowned brands are investing on videos to be watched and shared online in order to develop brand awareness. We can find catwalk shows, advertising campaigns, store openings, interviews... Louis Vuitton has even produced beautiful videos about its carefully selected City Guides.  

The most popular fashion videos are shot as music videos such as the ones Inez van Lamsweerde did for Pierre Balmain, Juicy Couture and more recently to Miu Miu. But global fashion labels can afford the best and produce authentic short films to entertain their followers while also connecting with them on a different level. Keira Knightley acts on the latest Karl Lagerfeld film for Chanel (96,187 subscribers), Once Upon a Time... published on May 8 2013.

Dior (58,539 subscribers) was probably one of the first big names of the fashion industry to produce short films specifically commissioned to communicate the house's style. My favourite is In Shanghai, Lady Blue is in Love directed by David Lynch with Marion Cotillard, where her Lady Dior bag hides the secrets of her love story (published on June 8 2011).

Prada (15,905 subscribers) has recently produced a film by Wes Anderson and Roman Coppola starring Léa Seydoux but A Therapy by Roman Polanski with Helena Bonham Carter and Ben Kingsley is still more popular and always a pleasure to watch (published on May 22, 2012). 

Donna Karan New York (468 subscribers) has still a long way to go in terms of popularity but Anjelica Huston took a turn behind the camera to direct Haven't We Met Before? starring Felicity Jones and the charming Jack Davenport who you may recognise from The Talented Mr Ripley. This short film, published on February 4 2013, captures the pleasure of getting ready to go out and the spirit of old school seduction. 

Diane Von Furstenberg (948 subscribers) also needs to work harder to stimulate people to follow her YouTube channel but has already collaborated with Gia Coppola to create Writer's Block (published on March 30 2012), featuring a playful 60s-inspired story about a young screen writer in Hollywood. Much has been written about fashion in film but fortunately this connection is becoming more and more a two-way process.



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Dior's Blast from the Past

For moments of serene inspiration why not visiting the Christian Dior Museum of Granville? Its latest exhibition  - Impressions Dior - celebrates the influence of the impressionism art movement on Maison Dior's aesthetics. Impressionist painters went outdoors to express their direct intuitive vision, it was all about light, colour and movement. 

                     

This new found artistic freedom has inspired Christian Dior to depict the woman as a flower with his legendary "New Look" in 1947, aimed to bring back the Belle Époque. Christian Dior's autobiography describes the interior of the villa Les Rhumbs and devotes long passages to the cliff top garden he designed with his mother Madeleine. 

Right: the pergola decorated with roses in the garden of the villa Les Rhumbs in Granville. Musée Christian Dior collection, Granville. Left: Rose de France afternoon dress in taffeta with coloured rose print, Spring-Summer 1956 Haute Couture collection, Flèche line ©LazizHamani

He was as captivated by an open-air lifestyle as impressionists themselves. It's important to remember the impressionism art movement captures the transient effects of light in brilliant compositions, depicting landscapes and scenes of modern life painted outdoors. Le déjeuner des canotiers by Renoir is a particularly vivid representation of the bright sunlight and the energy of social gatherings. 

Left: Marie Bracquemond (1841-1916), Three Women with Parasols, oil on canvas. Paris, Musée d'Orsay. ©Patrice Schimdt/RMN-Grand Palais (Musée d'Orsay). Right: Amber Valetta inspired by Renoir, Anna Mikhaylik inspired by Seurat and Vivienne Orth inspired by Manet models, Autumn-Winter 2007 Haute Couture collection. Christian Dior by John Galliano. ©LazizHamani

Impressions Dior establishes an interesting dialogue between more than 70 dresses with a selection of masterpieces from impressionist painters, ranging from Monet to Degas, Renoir to Berthe Morisot. Throughout this exhibition it's possible to assert the permanent links that have been weaving the Maison Dior to impressionism. Is there a better way to brighten up your spring?

Left: Berthe Morisot, Tulips, watercolour on paper, 1890. Musée Marmottan Monet, Paris. ©Marmottan Monet Museum, Paris/Giraudon/The Bridgeman Art Library. Right: Helvétie dance dress in white organdie, embroidered with crescent moons in blue lace and sequins. Spring-Summer 1956 Haute Couture collection, Flèche line, ©LazizHamani.  

Christian Dior Museum

Granville, Normandy

Ends September 22nd 2013

Christian Dior by Raf Simons, Autumn/Winter 2013-14
(photos edited from vogue.it)

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Top 10 Met Ball Dresses

The annual Costume Institute fundraising gala at the MET is one of the most important events for the fashion industry, when celebrities wear the most amazing dresses on the red carpet. This year's theme was Punk: Chaos to Couture, a promising yet challenging endeavour for even the best stylists in the world.

Sarah Jessica Parker in Giles Deacon

The red carpet didn't live up to expectations but some stars managed to succeed and the most brilliant interpretation of the theme was undoubtedly by Sarah Jessica Parker. Philip Treacy's headpiece is definitely the cherry on top of the cake, bringing the whole look together in a magnificent way.

Taylor Swift in J. Mendel

There were a few literal interpretations of either punk or couture but few achieve the same subtle balance between these two contrasting styles. Taylor Swift is always interesting on the red carpet, revealing a strong aesthetic sense. Kirsten Dunst was also particularly chic in a beautiful Louis Vuitton gown with feathered detailing. 

Kirsten Dunst in Louis Vuitton

We regularly see 'the little black dress' on red carpet events, it's a safe option but it can also become predictable so it's important to have something that sets it apart from previously seen ideas. Miranda Kerr was stunning in Michael Kors, a sexy version which suits her joyful character.

Miranda Kerr in Michael Kors

But Jennifer Lawrence wore one of the most extraordinary black dresses at the Met Ball 2013 and Florence Welch was adventurous with a Givenchy Couture gown by Ricardo Tisci. This was also the designer chosen by Amanda Seyfried, who wore a silk printed dress from the spring/summer 2007 collection.

Jennifer Lawrence in Christian Dior and Florence Welch in Givenchy

Emma Watson, who stars in the latest Sofia Coppola film - The Bling Ring - chose an asymmetric Prabal Gurung dress for this year's Met Ball. This sought-after event is an opportunity to dress up and wear a long gown but there are no fixed rules. Is it possible to pull it off with a short dress?

Emma Watson in Prabal Gurung and Amanda Seyfried in Givenchy Couture

Gisele Bundchen and Karolina Kurkova were bold enough to wear short dresses and they both look stunning. Overall, this was a fabulous evening for the fashion industry but somehow disappointing as this theme was controversial enough to justify braver options. Punk is subversive while couture is all about beauty and craftsmanship.

Gisele Bundchen in Anthony Vaccarello and Karlolina Kurkova in Mary Katrantzou

When opposing forces manage to achieve a balance, then something incredible can emerge. For this suggestive theme, there's a particular dress that comes up in my mind, a Dior dress Gisele wore to Nick Knight's Masquerade Ball in 2006. Simply Fabulous! For further information about this year's Met Ball, watch the video on American Vogue.  

  

Gisele Bundchen in Christian Dior, 2006
(photo: vogue.co.uk)

Punk: Chaos to Couture
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
New York, ends August 14th 2013


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Vogue Festival 2013

This year's festival was almost like an upgrade of its successful first version, set in a premium location with a much larger audience and a wide range of key speakers from the fashion industry. This is a great opportunity to judge for ourselves people whom we can only perceive through the eyes of the media.

Natalie Massenet, Vogue Festival 2013 (photo: vogue.co.uk)

From the impact of street style blogs on the fashion industry to the secrets behind the success of a magazine cover shoot, many aspects were discussed and thought of by those who made it to the top. How to get there continues to be the main question in most people's minds. 

One of the most influential speakers was definitely Natalie Massenet, founder of Net-a-porter.com and chairman of the British Fashion Council. She anticipated the evolution of e-commerce into retail in 1999 and after eleven years sold her business to the luxury-brand Richemont group for £350 million, while remaining its executive chairman. 

Festival Highlights: Day One, British Vogue on YouTube

Her meteoric rise enables her to speak with authority about success but Massenet says there is no fixed recipe apart from being unique and to follow our instincts. In fact, each person has their own path and some manage to get there others don't, but what is the definition of success? 

Let's look at two examples of the British fashion industry, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. Both made it to the top, their talent was revered and their bank accounts had robust figures. But can fortune and glory define success? McQueen ended up killing himself and if you watch Galliano speaking after his amazing first show and watch him years later at the end of a catwalk, the difference is obvious.

Festival Highlights: Day Two, British Vogue on YouTube

Without wanting to get into the scandal that propelled his exit from Christian Dior, even though his talent is undeniable in both periods, the joyful young man of the beginning of his career was no longer there. Fortune and glory are not necessarily bad, Massenet looks ravishing and professionally fulfilled, but they are not reliable sources of happiness and do not define success. 

It's important to strive to do what we love but how we affect other people's lives can also be incredibly rewarding. An enthusiastic debate with Vivienne Westwood, Livia Firth, Katharine Hamnett and photographer Tom Craig left no doubts about how fashion can actually change the world. 

photo: vogue.co.uk

This is the way forward, a conscientious approach to both production and consumption. If success continues to be measured in figures, it's impossible to let light into the dark corners of the fashion industry and 'accidents' such as the one in Bangladesh this weekend can become inevitable.  

Vogue's Festival was also brighter with other stars of the fashion industry such as Donatella Versace, Victoria Beckham, Mario Testino and the fabulous Alber Elbaz, Lanvin's creative director. Looking forward to next year's edition!

For more information visit British Vogue.



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Slow Fashion? Your Choice

As Diane Von Furstenberg said, there's nothing like wearing a dress to 'feel like a woman.' Despite fashion's diversity it can be challenging to find an innovative dress which sets itself apart from previously seen ideas. Fortunately more and more designers are creating unique patterns and graphic effects to appeal to the increasingly fashion savvy and sophisticated modern woman.

Bottega Veneta and Diane Von Furstenberg (photos edited from vogue.it)

This trend has been gaining momentum since last season's catwalk shows and it encapsulates our need for a long lasting and carefully tailored piece, which will make us feel great each time we decide to wear it. Rebecca Willis wrote about the 'slow fashion campaign' on Intelligent Life magazine, gathering relevant information about what women really want from fashion now.

Mary Katrantzou and Felipe Oliveira Baptista (photos edited from vogue.it)

Even thought this is a trend, it's important to understand we have the power, we may read information about trends or seek styling advice but ultimately it's our choice. If we buy something we love which suits our body shape and lifestyle while also reflecting our personality there's not much chance for regrets.

John Galliano and Lanvin (photos edited from vogue.it)

Brands and designers do a lot of research about their customers and particularly today, with social media and other powerful marketing tools characteristic of our digital age, this dialogue is becoming more and more dynamic.  We should never undermine the business side of fashion, it will inevitably respond to sales figures, so our responsibility as consumers is to buy only when we're happy with both the product and the brand. 

Andrew Gn and Tom Ford (photos edited from vogue.it)

If we wouldn't have demanded fast and cheap fashion it wouldn't exist. If we keep buying more and more brands produce more and more, it's the basic economic law of demand and supply. It's easy to put all the blame in the big bad wolf of fashion industry but we also have to be aware of our role as consumers. What and how we buy dictates the evolution of fashion as a whole.

Paul Smith and Etro (photos edited from vogue.it)

If we would refuse to buy from brands and designers without having more information about their ethical standards in relation to working conditions and impact on the environment, they would certainly respond to it. Unfortunately even when child labour is reported in the media sales show no signs of slowing down. But greater transparency is not only our right but our duty to demand. 

J. Mendel and Jean Paul Gaultier (photos edited from vogue.it)

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Visit Designs of the Year 2013

After a much needed tech-free holiday, it's a pleasure to get back to work with the 'Oscars of the design world'. The Designs of the Year 2013, celebrating the most innovative international designs over the past year, are currently being showcased at the Design Museum. This is a great opportunity to be inspired by those at the forefront of the creative industries.

Diana Vreeland, the Eye has to Travel directed by Lisa Immordino Vreeland

From architecture to graphics and furniture, different categories are awarded for its artistic output. I will focus on the fashion category won by the excellent tribute to Diana Vreeland in the form of an intimate documentary. It captures beautifully her enthusiasm for life, visionary spirit and inner sense of style.

"She took fashion design to another level, reaching a wider audience and creating a greater understanding of the fashion world." Ilse Crawford, chair of the jury

Keira Knightley as Anna Karenina

Other fashion nominations include the extraordinary Anna Karenina costumes by Jacqueline Durran, who won an Oscar for her incredible interpretation of Leo Tolstoy's remarkable heroine. Another favourite is the refreshing Louis Vuitton collection designed by Yayoi Kusama, dots were never this stylish!

Louis Vuitton collection designed by Yayoi Kusama
(photos edited from vogue.it)

I Want Muscle directed by Elisha Smith-Leverock short video was also able to make it to this exclusive design awards nominations. But even though the winner of this fashion category was also focused on the moving image, this list featured a wide range of particularly graphic A/W12 collections by innovative designers such as Craig Green and Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons.

Comme des Garçons designed by Rei kawakubo (A/W12)
(photos edited from vogue.it)

Other selected fashion collections from this season include Proenza Shouler and Giles Deacon. Victoria Beckham was wearing the black Giles dress shown bellow on the Olympic's closing ceremony in London. This was undoubtedly a proud moment for the British fashion industry. 

Giles A/W12 collection (photos edited from vogue.it)

From S/S12 collections, only Prada caught the eye of the experts with her brilliant take on iconic imagery from the past, making vintage cars and other clever design notes not only appealing but also wearable. Her video to promote this collection was also fabulous! 

Prada S/S 12 collection (photos edited from vogue.it)

For the fashion category alone, this exhibition is already worth visiting but there are many interesting design aesthetics and ideas featured in other key areas such as architecture and furniture. We can also make the most of its location and go for a walk along the river... Any plans for the weekend? 

Proenza Shouler A/W12 collection (photos edited from vogue.it)

Designs of the Year 2013
For a full list of winners and nominees in all categories, please visit the Design Museum. (On until 07 July 2013)



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Read Paris Haute Couture

Fashion today is open to whoever wants to follow it, trends are becoming more and more merely open guidelines. Bill Cunningham speaks about the "globalisation of fashion" in one of his latest On the Street videos, with people adapting fashion to their own culture and sexuality, going beyond the "antiquated idea of good or bad taste". 

Christian Dior and Giambattista Valli latest couture shows
(Photos edited from vogue.it)

This freedom to edit our own style should be celebrated and encouraged but if we love fashion it's important to develop our knowledge about it and learn from its ultimate heritage: haute couture. Anne Zazzo and Olivier Sillard have written a reference book spanning from the beginning of this exquisite craft in 1858.

Balenciaga, evening ensemble, August 1967. Gazar d’Abraham fabric, polyamide tulle, appliqués of taffeta flowers made from crinkled silk and ostrich feathers. © Katerina Jebb

Paris Haute Couture, recently published in the UK by Flammarion, takes us on a journey throughout the evolution of dressmaking, from Charles Frederick Worth and Balenciaga to Yves Saint Laurent and Viktor & Rolf. This comprehensive history examines not only the role of the designer but also the relationship between haute couture and the client.

Carven, Extase evening gown, 1945. Top in cellulose acetate rayon knit, skirt in pekin fabric and cellulose acetate rayon. © Katerina Jebb

In Paris couture houses have always attracted worldwide attention for elegance and glamour. They were disrupted by the wartime occupation of Paris when private clients dispersed. The Germans planned to move couture to Berlin but Lucien Lelong, president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, objected saying 'It is in Paris or it is nowhere.' 

Fath, evening gown, winter 1951. Cellulose acetate rayon satin. © Katerina Jebb

This is still true today, the production of couture is important to the prestige of France and Paris continues to be its centre stage. Some couture houses lasted for generations others only as long as their founders were alive. While traditionally catering for wealthy private clients, they also sought new markets by creating perfumes and opening boutiques. 

Book cover

By the late 1950s, the leading couture houses have become global brands. Couture will always be special, it's not about selling clothes but executing orders and as Hardy Amies pointed out "the whole process should be a harmonious co-operation between designer, tailor and customer." 

Elie Saab and Valentino latest couture shows
(Photos edited from vogue.it)

The artistry and craftsmanship of a couture dress requires time, it's the opposite of the prevalent attitude of "I want it now". This focus on timeless and incredibly beautiful pieces adapted to a particular person is what makes couture unique and its precious legacy survives in the remaining grand houses of Paris. 



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Red: Celebrating Life!

Watching the latest catwalk shows for Autumn/Winter 2013-14 it's impossible not to notice the splash of a vibrant red across different collections. Raf Simons has researched Christian Dior's archives to revive the impressive red coat which was drawn by René Gruau in one of his famous fashion illustrations.

Christian Dior and Gimabattista Valli (photos: edited from vogue.it)

An iconic photograph of Guy Bourdin with red polished nails is able to transmit the incredible energy of this particular colour. Several fashion designers have chosen a bright ripe tomato red to dress their women for next season. But what's the significance of this colour?

J. Mendel and Versace (photos: edited from vogue.it)

Colours can be considered as energy waves, each with its own frequency. Ancient Egyptians and Greeks used colour for healing and colour therapy is often associated with chakras which go back to Ancient India. 

"All seemingly solid objects in our world including our bodies are made up of the electromagnetic energy." Thelma Moss 

Bottega Veneta and Nina Ricci (photos: edited from vogue.it)

The body is said to have seven chakras or centres of energy, each of them associated with a single colour. If the chakras become imbalanced physical diseases can develop and colour therapy aims to correct these imbalances. 

During the nineteenth century the emphasis in science was exclusively on matter rather than on energy. As medicine came under the umbrella of science, it focused on the material physical body and interest in healing with colours declined.

Dolce & Gabbana and Vivienne Westwood (photos edited from vogue.it)

But it's interesting to know red is considered to be the first base chakra. This chakra relates to self awareness and to our basic human instincts such as survival. It is connected with our physical vitality, mental perseverance and passion. Red is a stimulating and energising colour which gives us courage and strength. 

An under active chakra might display signs of a lack of energy, of not belonging and not being able to cope. You can boost your red energy by exercising, eating red fruits and vegetables, listen to music with deep beats and wear red! A splash of red can certainly lift up our spirits!

Moschino and Dolce & Gabbana (photos: edited from vogue.it)

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